Before the 1960s, Langhe Nebbiolo was known to be aggressively tannic and austere. These red wines required long periods of maturation beyond the patience of the average modern wine drinker. Angelo Gaja, the prophet of modern winemaking in Piedmont, completely changed the trend towards this particular style. Instead, Gaja used French barriques, shorter maceration times and earlier harvests. He completely revolutionized the traditional use of 500L Slavonian oak botti and heavy extraction.

Nebbiolo began to undress a little, revealing more fruit, elegance and most importantly approachability. While many producers still hold to some of the traditional winemaking practices, many incorporate some use of modern flair. Winemakers in Barbaresco and Barolo showcase each house’s personality through the many unofficial crus or single-vineyard sites in the area. The once neglected region is now the gold standard for Nebbiolo within the lineage of the world’s greatest wines.

The Gaja winery was just as impressive as the family’s legacy. It was massive and feng-shui clean with modern sculptures. Our personal guide, Sarah, Gaia Gaja’s assistant, spoke better English than I do. She pointed out the vertical plantings and microclimates, noted the use of Austrian oak (the typical barrel found in the area is 500-L Slovenian) and gave a detailed history on the family and their wines. The wines were sexy, stylish, detailed and made a statement on par with the modern art sprinkled throughout the estate.

GAJA Wines:

GAJA Barbaresco D.O.C.G. 2012

This bottling is usually a blend of 14 vineyards, although just 5 were used for this vintage. The single vineyards are aged individually in oak for 12 months, then blended and aged in botti (large Slovenian or Austrian barrels, both of which are less porous than French oak) for an additional 12 months. 2012 was a warm, cloudy year. Rose, cherry, bay leaf, oregano, medicinal and tannic.

GAJA Conteisa Langhe Nebbiolo D.O.C. 2011

92% Nebbiolo 8% Barbera (hence the D.O.C…D.O.C.G from this area must be 100% Nebbiolo). This word in English means “contest,” in reference to the 100-yr dispute between La Morra & Barolo for the right to claim the Cerequio area as theirs (La Morra won in 1275).  The Conteisa vineyard is situated here, south-facing with clay-calcareous soils mixed with sand. Fermentation and maceration lasts about 3 weeks, followed by 30 months of aging in oak. This year was sunny and warm. Fragrant, fresh & elegant with aromas of rose, vanilla, cherry, thyme, anise, and a long finish.

GAJA San Lorenzo Langhe Nebbiolo 2013 (barrel sample)

95% Nebbiolo 5% Barbera. San Lorenzo is the flagship and the first single vineyard Gaja wine, released in 1967. It is said to have its own distinct microclimates as the vineyards work their way up the Sorí, or hillside. A natural amphitheater, the bottom soils near the river are thick, producing more tannin. While the perfume of the wine is provided by the thinner soils near the top. It is south-facing with clay-calcareous soils. 3 weeks maceration, 24 months oak. It typically produces the most power and austerity of their wines. This bottling did not fail to disappoint. Rich, complex, black tea, tar, mushroom, pomegranate, spicy and bold.

GAJA Costa Russi Langhe Nebiolo D.O.C. 2013 (barrel sample)

95% Nebbiolo 5% barbera. Costa indicates hillside, in this case coming from lower on the hill, thereby producing a riper style. The land faces southwest with clay-calcareous soils.  3 weeks maceration, 24 months oak. This was an even, cool vintage. Juicy, black cherry, moss & sandalwood.

GAJA Alteni Di Brassica Langhe Sauvignon Blanc D.O.C. 1986 (in magnum)

This was their first vintage of this wine, a “classic” vintage. Alenti refers to the stone walls that surround the plots of land. Brassica is the name for the yellow flowers that grow there in spring. The vineyards are in Barbaresco and Serralunga. Fermentation & oak aging for 6-8 months. I was surprised by how much life this wine still had. Baked pineapple, apple, butterscotch, sweet corn and asparagus.

Tenute Cisa Asinari di Marchesi di Grésy

We had a traditional Piedmontese lunch at Trattoria Antica Torre, across from Barbaresco’s winemaking co-op, Produttori del Barbaresco, before heading down the hill to visit Tenute Cisa Asinari di Marchesi di Grésy. This is another prestigious name in the area. Alberto di Grésy founded the winer in 1973. Marchesi di Grésy is made up of four estates in the Langhe and Monferrato hills.

The welcome, like the wines, was warm and generous. Giulia, our guide, led us through the winery. The winery is certainly clean, though here you find a charming clutter of various empty wine bottles, displayed like trophies, and an oenologist’s library. We saw another combination of barriques and botti, along with large concrete tanks. We tasted through maybe a dozen wines, each showcasing a special something from Piedmonte.

Tenute Cisa Asinari Dei Marchesi Di Grésy “Martinega” Barbaresco D.O.C.G. 2012

The Martinega vineyard is noted for its exceptional position for winemaking since the ancient Roman times, then known as “Villa Martis.” With southern exposure, the unique blue marl soils and a careful hand in the pristine winery create a wine with elegance, spice, finesse and vibrant life. Sweet tobacco, leather, ripe cherry and violets. Complex and harmonious.

Wineries in Barolo

Guiseppe Mascarello

The next day, we had two appointments in Barolo. We started at Guiseppe Mascarello, a more traditional spirit with pretty wines, best known for their “Monprivato” bottling. The visit was short. We had a quick tasting with the winemaker and his sweet mother, who was able to communicate in French, as my Italian is rather handicapped.

Again, the winery’s signature wine. Grown on the tartonion soils of Barolo, this is a lighter, more floral expression of the D.O.C.G. Leather, thyme, raspberry wrapped in an elegant body and extra long finish. The tannins are fresh and balanced.

G.D. Vajra

We finished our journey in Piedmont at Vajra.  Our host led us through the unique winery, just adjacent to their Bricco delle Viole vineyards, which is where some of the family’s first. Stained glass windows reflected varying shades of blue and yellow on the stainless steel tanks. These windows are said to be a connection with the winery and the world outside. They are sometimes symbolized on their various labels. Another winery that combines both traditional and modern practices, nonetheless with a determination to experiment with various plantings. We tasted everything from Riesling, a rarity in Piedmonte, to Freisa, a native grape that many winemakers are working to revive.

G.D. VAJRA Freisa 2012

A grape with firm acidity and tannin like its cousin, Nebbiolo, but with more generous fruit. Candied red apple, strawberry, cocoa nibs, rose pouperri and mushroom. Bright acid and a long, juicy finish.

G.D. VAJRA “Bricco Delle Viole” Barolo D.O.C.G. 2011

Bricco, meaning hilltop, will typically indicate ample sunshine and ripe fruit. Not necessarily a fruity wine, but this one does have power. This is an old vineyard that creates wines of concentration and firm tannin. Tar, autumn leaf, tobacco, orange peel, bay leaf, coffee grounds, black tea, red currant and prosciutto. Delicious and very “Italian.”

Rich in wine culture, Piedmont, like Burgundy, has an endless supply of microclimates and hillside variances that make each place special. The different crus certainly offer their own distinctive personality. Yet I see is an increasingly blurred line between the once believed stylistic distinction between the “king and queen,” versus “old and new” traditions. Moreover, I see an influence of modern ideas and advancements with traditional practices, each house creating its own style.

The Gaja wines of Barbaresco show power and authority, while some Barolo houses such as G. Mascarello have pretty fruit and elegance. Like any withstanding couple, the styles and personality of the two areas have began to both mirror one another. I saw a lot of pride while I was there (as with any Italian region). While some traditions have begun to fade away with the modern palate, the increasingly focused eye on Langhe has allowed some other traditions to revive, such as the use of lesser-known native varietals. Barolo & Barbaresco are just a part of the rich Piedmontese culture, but its reputation has began to share light on the surrounding areas, such as Roero, Ghemme, and Nizza. Their regional influence on the local wine market is undeniable, ensuring their royal title stays attached. -AT